Pasted wallpaper may seem scary but with some research, prep and patience you can do it too!

It’s reveal week of the One Room Challenge and we are showing you the room wallpaper and all! Now the room isn’t 100% complete. Week 1 we revealed the Mood Board for this 8-week project, it was a lofty goal but some things happened along the way to slow things down. The theme of the main bedroom was Purple and moody, it really is a very moody purple and the mustard yellow wallpaper just brings it all together. It’s perfect!

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Afro and Reno is supported by you, our DIY and Home Renovation community. We participate in affiliate programs to help us earn a small commission on the products we use, love and share with you. Links on this page may come from Amazon Services LLC Influencer Program, Lowes Creator Program, Walmart Creator, or LTK (formerly RewardStyle).

If you decide to buy from one of our links, this goes a long way to help support future Afro and Reno DIYs or some cat food for our broke best friends, Sassy, Kit, Stormy, and Shadow.

If you want to support us directly, consider buying us a Coffee through Ko-Fi

Buy us a Coffee!

After demoing a wall, removing the header, and opening up the closet. It’s now time to get the pieces back together.

Affiliate Disclosure

Afro and Reno is supported by you, our DIY and Home Renovation community. We participate in affiliate programs to help us earn a small commission on the products we use, love and share with you. Links on this page may come from Amazon Services LLC Influencer Program, Lowes Creator Program, Walmart Creator, or LTK (formerly RewardStyle).

If you decide to buy from one of our links, this goes a long way to help support future Afro and Reno DIYs or some cat food for our broke best friends, Sassy, Kit, Stormy, and Shadow.

If you want to support us directly, consider buying us a Coffee through Ko-Fi

Buy us a Coffee!

Tools for the job

• Platform
• Trim puller
• Hammer
• Drill
• Construction nails
• Framing Nailer
• 2x4x8 or 2x4x16 studs (depends on your opening size, especially for the header)
• Drywall
• Drywall Mud
• Drywall tape
• Oscillating tool and Metal carbide blade

Several mistakes were made that change the plans this week (week 7). Originally, I was going to tackle doing pasted wallpaper for the first time. I bought the wallpaper adhesive, had all my rolls of paper…and then I read all the instructions. Unfortunately, bought the wrong adhesive and they don’t sell in stores! The Van Gogh Almond Blossom wallpaper, is a thick (thicc!) premium paper and needs an adhesive made for heavy duty/ vinyl paper. It’s been ordered but won’t get here until Thursday…while the week 8 reveals are being made!

Current Closet View

1: Removing Construction nails

How hard is it to remove nails imbedded into concrete? Super hard as I found out…and the nails were huge!!! To remove, I used my multi-tool I bought from Harbor Freight for only $25 and a metal carbide blade . This was important because other metal blades or the ones that say they’re for wood/metal were not enough! I will take a bit of time for the too to remove the nail, be patient as the tool worth through the thick nails. DO NOT TOUCH THE NAIL afterward. All the friction of removal will make its so its hot to the touch. You will burn your fingers, I know this from experience sadly.

Nevertheless, I knew I was sick and tired of having my clothes on the couch in my office…it was time to get the closet in a state where I could fill the closet.

2: Making a Custom Door Opening

• 

  Framing with jack stud removed

• 

  King studs go to the ceiling, jack studs hold up header

• 

  Tools

This will be part of a longer post on How to Build a Custom Door Opening. Here is a shorter version of what you need to know if you are not in the mood to read a detailed post.

Step 1: Figure Out Door Opening Size

This may seem straightforward but it requires you to know the end from the beginning. This is an advance carpentry task, so it’s important to know how door frames are created, why they are the way that they are and the tools you’ll need for the job. At minimum you’ll need several 2x4s, a level and a framing nailer.

Before cutting anything, determine the rough opening size for your door (s):

• Standard rough opening = Door width + 2 inches, Door height + 2 inches
• Example: A 30-inch by 80-inch door needs a 32-inch by 82-inch rough opening
• The extra space accounts for the door frame and shims to level the door.

Step 2: Cut & Install the King Studs

Step 3: Add the Header

Step 4: Install the Jack Studs

Step 5: Add the Cripple Studs (If Needed)

Step 6: Check for Level & Secure

Step 7: Prepare for Installation

For my closet I want tall doors and not have to have any framing in between. My current height is 93in and width is 138in. I want to custom make the doors, so the doors I need will be 91in and to fill the closet width either 4 doors @34.5 or 5 doors at 27.6, unless I can find off the shelf doors to fit. the size. (Spoiler: I found Ikea doors that would Fit and Re-framed my doors, Read all about it soon)

3: Adding trim

Next, we added trim to the inside of the closet. This is pretty straightforward. I did very simple trim with butt joints, no fancy miters, nothing fancy at all just cheap MDF 1x4s I got at a liquidation seller. Honestly, no one is going to go in the closet and say…oh wow you really went cheap in the trim in here…no one really looks at the details in the closet. The trim inside and outside serve as a way to hold the door jamb in place.

4: Adding shelves to the Container Store Avera closet

This will be a separate “how to” on the blog but this is one of the easiest upgrades you can make. I called the Container Store, had them update my Closet master file and ordered the extra hardware. There was a bit of confusion at first about shipping and who would be installing it. At first there was an automatic minimum shipping change…that only makes sense if you’re shipping freight items, but in the end they were able to remove it; they even offered free help installing it! Honestly, it’s a simple upgrade that any once can do. Best of all, it does not void your warranty as along as they approve of it!

The Reveal

Finally, here is the closet now! I still have to move all my clothes back in, organize them and add trim on the outside. However, its progress! Stay tuned for the final reveal in Week 8; I may even do a fashion show to see what still fits, I have a lot of clothes and it’s time for a cull.

Missed a previous post? Checkout all the ORC 2022 blog posts!

Wk 1: Plan

Wk 2: Prep

Wk 3: Electrics

Wk 4: Remove a wall

Wk 5: Avera

W6: EZ roller

W7: Rebuild

Wk 8: Reveal

Frustrated by my paint sprayer I bought this roller. I did not want to paint the ceiling with a regular roller!

Affiliate Disclosure

Afro and Reno is supported by you, our DIY and Home Renovation community. We participate in affiliate programs to help us earn a small commission on the products we use, love and share with you. Links on this page may come from Amazon Services LLC Influencer Program, Lowes Creator Program, Walmart Creator, or LTK (formerly RewardStyle).

If you decide to buy from one of our links, this goes a long way to help support future Afro and Reno DIYs or some cat food for our broke best friends, Sassy, Kit, Stormy, and Shadow.

If you want to support us directly, consider buying us a Coffee through Ko-Fi

Buy us a Coffee!

• Where to get the EZ Roller
  • Amazon:
    • Roller Kit
    • Replacement Parts
  • Lowes:
    • Roller Kit
    • Replacement parts

How to set up the EZ roller

First, set up is super easy! You will connect the roller (#1) to the main tube (#3). Then you will put the fill tube (#2) in you paint can (after you stir your paint properly of course!). Next, stick the end of the paint base into your main tube (with reservoir)(#3) and pull on the plunger. Then, you will see the paint start to pull the paint into the main tube and fill the reservoir.

Therefore, to get the paint into the roller, disconnect from the fill tube (#2)(this step is really important!) then squeeze the trigger until you see paint in the roller. Moreover, this part can take a little bit before the roller has enough paint, especially with a new roller cover.

How To Use The Wagner EZ Roller

Nevertheless, use the EZ roller, you use it just like a regular roller, you roll it on your wall or ceiling, as you need more paint you squeeze the trigger to release more paint. You will notice that the plunger pushes on the paint in the main tube to get you more paint! However, I have noticed the longer you use it, the harder you sometimes have to push on the roller, but that could also be user error.

Consequently, as you run out of paint, instead of having to use a paint tray, you just fill up the reservoir with more paint! I refilled about 4 times to paint the walls, the process of painting with this roller is very easy, and I got those walls done in about 30mins!

How To Clean The EZ Roller

Uniquely to this roller, cleaning is a bit more involved. With regular rollers, I’ll be honest I’ve just been throwing away the roller cover and just cleaning the roller cage. When I first painted the ceiling, I did it over two nights and cleaned in between, it took forever to clean but I now know that its better to take all the pieces apart to clean the Wagner EZ Roller. Nevertheless, look at the image above to see all the parts or check out the manual here.

• First you’ll remove excess paint from the main tube, just stick in in the fill tube, instead of pulling the plunger, you push!
• Second you’ll clean your fill stick and main tube by attaching them, using a bucket of clean water pull clean water into your main tube, then push. Fo this several time to clean the tube and the fill stick.
• Third, disconnect the roller arm assembly from the quick release tab. Separate the roller cover from the roller arm assembly and the roller cap. NOTE: There will be paint here, lots of it! Take the roller cover out by pulling on the black piece (roller cap) at the end then using the metal piece (roller arm assembly) to push it out. There will be a foam piece (inner spacer) inside, keep it!
• Next, Clean the inner spacer, clean the inner and outer caps. To clean the roller arm assembly, reconnect it to the main tube, use a bucket to pull and push water out of the assembly. Make sure to remove fill tube.
• Despite the roller covers being washable, I like to throw away the roller cover but this can also be cleaned.

How to change the roller cover

If you have all the pieces separate from cleaning, this step is easy. Take out your new cover, put in the foam piece (inner spacer) , put in the the black inner and outer covers and the roller arm assembly back in.

What to do with excess paint!?

You over estimated and now you have too much paint in your Wagner EZ roller! Have no fear it’s actually really easy to get rid of excess paint! The same way you’ve been refilling your paint, is the way you get rid of extra paint! You stick it into the paint stick in your paint can, and instead of pulling you push the paint in the base back into the can! Easy Peasy!

My Review

• The Good:
  • I like the ease of use of the roller.
  • I like not having to use a paint tray
  • Great for painting the ceiling!!
  • Easy to set up
  • Great for large surfaces with very few things in the way
  • Good for textured walls or ceilings, but you may still need to touch up

• The Bad:
  • Drips. I had drips everywhere the second time using it on the side of the roller, which I believe was because something wasn’t secure when I changed the roller cover.
  • Cleaning takes work. You have to clean not only the roller cage, but the main tuber, the fill tube…all of it!
  • The handle is bulky cause of the main tube.

Final ORC Project Thoughts

The end is near, we only have two more weeks left of the ORC. So whats left to do at this point? A lot, but not all of it can be done in time.

Lets start with what can be done:

• Wallpaper accent wall
• Finish adding door jamb to closet opening
• Finish adding door trim
• Sand and refinish thrifted dresser
• Build night stands
• Add shelves
• Put everything back in place!

What will not be done by week 8.

• Adding Closet door hardware (Need to re-order hardware, 4 week lead time)
• Send back old hardware
• Building closet doors (8 Panels!)

Three years ago I had an Avera closet system installed from the Container Store, it was out of sight out of mind but now it’s time to repaint and take a peek behind it.

This week as part of the One Room Challenge…were taking apart parts of this Avera Close to Paint! The Container Store sells this system as one of their Premium custom closet system, but unlike the Elfa System, it is not DIY friendly…or is it? This is a long post to buckle up!

Getting a Container Store Avera closet Installed

They Do All the Work!

In August 2019 I was dealing with a Termite issue, it seemed like everywhere I looked, there was termite damage, they were everywhere. I was overwhelmed, I was doing the basic things you do before moving into your new home. Painting, cleaning, but also paid a ton of money to tent the house and termite damage remediation. This was way before I really started on my DIY journey.

The main closet had one single rod and one long shelf but it was falling apart due to termites. Nevertheless, the fact that the previous owners each time them used that closet surely would have seen the termite frass come down (it was that bad) but yet none of it was disclosed, adding to my stress. In came the Container Store, I could work with a designer and custom build a closet and they will install it for me. I didn’t have to worry about anything!

Consequently, the night before install, I painted the closet, removed all the closet pieces (I could have left them as the installers are supposed to do it, but I didn’t know that at the time). I removed popcorn from the ceiling for the first time ever…and went to sleep super late.

That morning two installers (looking back they were possibly sub sub contractors, they spoke a little English) came to install, they did everything. However, the only decision I had to make was when they accidentally cut the hole for the outlet too high, if I wanted to wait for a new panel or have them move the outlet. I have them move it. If you speak a little Spanish a little can go a long way with your installers and potential language barriers. Overall the install went great!

Time for a Change

Now as part of the ORC I’m revamping the room to a dark and moody purple. The light lavender purple in the closet has got to go. But how do I get the side shelves of the Avera system out to paint? Since the closet is empty for the first time since the install, should I check on the hole that was left from removing that termite damaged shelf? Should I check how they patched and moved the outlet and change the outlet to something nicer and not painted over (thanks previous owners!)?

Last week we took out a wall How To Remove wall between closet doors. As you can see in the above picture…a preview of what was to come. I took out two of the Avera wall panels to see behind it! On the left near the middle I did make a proper patch of the wall damage that the installers didn’t fix, I also patched nail holes from the previous closet.

This is an advanced level job. Make sure you consult an Engineer to know if the wall is load bearing

Welcome to Week 4 of the One Room Challenge Sponsored by Apartment Therapy. While Last week we focused on adding electrical. The tail end of that week and this whole week is all about the wall in the closet!

Let’s demo that small wall between two sets of closet doors and figure out why thats there.

Affiliate Disclosure

Afro and Reno is supported by you, our DIY and Home Renovation community. We participate in affiliate programs to help us earn a small commission on the products we use, love and share with you. Links on this page may come from Amazon Services LLC Influencer Program, Lowes Creator Program, Walmart Creator, or LTK (formerly RewardStyle).

If you decide to buy from one of our links, this goes a long way to help support future Afro and Reno DIYs or some cat food for our broke best friends, Sassy, Kit, Stormy, and Shadow.

If you want to support us directly, consider buying us a Coffee through Ko-Fi

Buy us a Coffee!

Tools for the Job

• Prybar
• Hammer
• Reciprocating Saw /sawzall
• Drywall knife OR
• Drywall cutting tool
• Respirator mask with particulate filter
• Safety eyewear
• Gloves

Ever wonder why that small divider wall is there between your closet?

• In my case it was there for two reasons
  • To act as an anchor for the doors
  • To fit standard door sizes
• The wall can be load bearing! This means it’s helping hold up your roof and transfer the load!

A disclaimer: Make sure you know whether this is a load bearing wall, Afro and Reno is not liable for any damage caused by not understanding the risks of removal. Consult a structural engineer before removing any walls.

Why is that wall there? Honestly, It’s really simple. It’s there to hold the door frame in place for standard doors. My closet is 12 feet wide, that is not a practical size for many door openings…..soon I’ll be custom building my own door for this opening but first we need to demo it.

The framing on your opening has a lot of parts. All of these parts work together to hold up your walls your ceiling, the door and everything in between. If you are not sure about how all these parts come together or whether or nor they may be structural, have the area inspected by a professional and a structural engineer.

1: Anatomy of a Door Frame

This post has some great info on framing: How to Frame a door rough opening

How is your door framed? What keeps everything together?

• King stud: Piece of wood going from ceiling to floor. Helps support the top plate along the ceiling
• Jack stud: Piece of wood going from floor to header. It is also nailed to the king stud. This helps bear the weight of the header and transfer load.
• Header: a horizontal piece of wood resting on the jack stud and in between the king studs.

2: Is it Load Bearing

This is the ultimate question as to whether a wall can come out or not. This will depend on your houses framing, roof geometry and how your trusses are meant to bear the load, among other things. In my case I know the trusses in my home bear the load on the exterior walls but this may not be the case for you.

I did consult with someone to verify the changes.

• Verify if wall (no matter how small) is load bearing with a professional
• Review your county/city/state/rules for changes to walls
  • Permits may be required
  • You may need drawings for the change, potentially from a structural engineer
• Know how your wall is framed and if weight needs to be distributed in other ways

3: Time To Demo the wall

Tools Needed:

• Prybar
• Hammer
• Reciprocating Saw /sawzall
• Drywall knife OR
• Drywall cutting tool
• Respirator mask with particulate filter
• Safety eyewear
• Gloves

Removing the wall and is delicate. While HGTV may show people taking a big hammer to a wall. The reality is you want to be more careful, more surgical. Removing layer by layer.

Step 1: Remove drywall using drywall knife or cutting tool

Step 2: Remove Jack studs and header. These will be the easiest to remove. I used a prybar and some leverage

Step 3: Remove King studs. This was a little harder as the jack stud was nailed very well to the concrete floor. In the end I used a reciprocating saw to remove the bottom part of the jack stud.

4: Put it all back together, no more wall!

Remembering the basic parts of the original framing for an opening the larger opening needs to have the same components. Instead of having two of each to make two doorways I only needed one, spanning the larger opening,

• King studs already existed at the left and right sides of the opening so I did not have to add new ones.
• New jack studs were added to the new opening height
• New longer header was added to the top, spanning horizontally, toenailed into the king studs and nailed to the jack studs.

If you haven’t already Check out the previous weeks of the ORC to see the progress and the moodboard!

• 

  Tamarah of Afro and reno standing infant of he now large open closet without a divider

• 

  King studs go to the ceiling, jack studs hold up header

• 

  Framing with jack stud removed

• 

  Hanging on

• 

  The Floor after wall removal

See the Complete Bedroom Renovation Journey as part of the ORC:

Wk 1: Plan

Wk 2: Prep

Wk 3: Electrics

Wk 4: Remove a wall

Wk 5: Avera

W6: EZ roller

W7: Rebuild

Wk 8: Reveal

Not sure where to start in your home improvement journey?

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Sometimes Do It Yourself means making the call yourself to a professional

One of my favorite YouTuber Jeff from HomeRenovision DIY says that sometimes DIY means making the call yourself to a pro. In this case thats what I did this week to get a new ceiling fan (yes the beautiful one from my ORC Kickoff moodboard!) and four new recessed lights. It doesn’t mean you aren’t capable of a failure, but that you are being strategic with the jobs that you do tackle.

In this case I needed the job done right, I had multiple things that needed adding which could get complicated, and I knew that the Electrician would get it done way faster than I could. As a result I could focus on other tasks this week.

The most important thins: I don’t do attics.

Affiliate Disclosure

Afro and Reno is supported by you, our DIY and Home Renovation community. We participate in affiliate programs to help us earn a small commission on the products we use, love and share with you. Links on this page may come from Amazon Services LLC Influencer Program, Lowes Creator Program, Walmart Creator, or LTK (formerly RewardStyle).

If you decide to buy from one of our links, this goes a long way to help support future Afro and Reno DIYs or some cat food for our broke best friends, Sassy, Kit, Stormy, and Shadow.

If you want to support us directly, consider buying us a Coffee through Ko-Fi

Buy us a Coffee!

Items to buy for your Electrician

1: Make sure you have all the lights and other fixtures you need. In my case that meant:

• Ceiling fan 52″ White, walnut
  • OR Ceiling Fan 44″
  • OR get it at LOWES
• Recessed lights White
  • Or Smart Recessed multicolor lights
• New Black light switch I choose stacked since space is limited
• Knowing location for installation / configuration

If you want standard lights, your electrician can provide white puck lights and standard white switches. You’d still have to provide the Fan.

The Prep I did before they came

I saved a little bit of money by removing the existing Fan. I also wanted to paint the ceiling before hand so having the fan gone helped.

After taking down the old fan and getting shocked twice (even with the Main power to the house off!!) I opened the box for this one and said nope! The Hunter Dempsey ceiling fan comes with a remote, receiver and a million wires and I decided it was best if an electrician figured it all out! They came on Tuesday to do all my electrical; it was a two person job and took most of the day! I watched as the put in new 4 wire line (black, white, red and ground) for this baby and linked it up to a new double switch.

Next came installing 4 recessed lights. I realize now it was overkill but I wanted to make sure every nook was illuminated as the only light was in the fan previously. I chose a color changing set which can do any color under the sun and wend with a black border to better blend in with my dark ceiling! The process to install these involved crawling into the attic, to wire all the lights together, drilling into the ceiling, and wiring it to the switch.

Overall it added a lot of light to this room. This week also gave me time to figure out what I need to do to remove the middle wall in the closet to open up the door frame. I polled my Instagram community and they came through! Hopefully next week, we’ll see some more demo work!

The Final Result

I love the ceiling color and I love this fan!

The install took about 4 hours by my electrician. I bought the lights, the fan and wall switch. He provided extra Rome wire, and went into the attic with his helper to wire the new lights, drill the holes for the lights to fit into and make sure everything worked.

Is this something why would try yourself?

ORC links for the previous and future posts!

What you should consider before painting your ceiling

One Room Challenge Week 2: All the things you should consider before painting your ceiling especially a dark color. Prep, prep and prep some more.

This week as part of the One Room Challenge we tackled the most boring part of any transformation Prep. Your ceiling is the 5th wall that most people forget about painting. Honestly when I first moved into my home and painted everything, I never even considered painting the ceiling…because celling re supposed to be white. Right?? WRONG!

Painting your ceiling can be a fun bold way of adding depth and some interest to your room, butt before you get the roller out, you need to prep. Now these steps work for your walls also but in this post we’re going to focus on you ceiling. If you’d like to see the moodboard for this space go to the Purple and Moody Main Bedroom post.

Affiliate Disclosure

Afro and Reno is supported by you, our DIY and Home Renovation community. We participate in affiliate programs to help us earn a small commission on the products we use, love and share with you. Links on this page may come from Amazon Services LLC Influencer Program, Lowes Creator Program, Walmart Creator, or LTK (formerly RewardStyle).

If you decide to buy from one of our links, this goes a long way to help support future Afro and Reno DIYs or some cat food for our broke best friends, Sassy, Kit, Stormy, and Shadow.

If you want to support us directly, consider buying us a Coffee through Ko-Fi

Buy us a Coffee!

The Tools You’ll Need

• Paint Scraper
• Drywall patch
• 220 Grit Sandpaper
• Paint Ultra Flat for ceilings
• Primer (regular, light walls)
  • Primer Gray (Dark walls)
• Tarp
• Paint Sprayer
• Wagner EZ roller to paint (see how to set up and use here)
• Hammer or screw driver for nail pops

Prepping you ceiling Steps

• Use a scraper to remove bumps on your wall
• Patch any holes and Fix nail pops
• Sand your wall to remove extra sheen (especially if you have glossy finish)
• If you are painting a Dark color consider using tinted primer or something like a Kilz 2 Gray
• Clear out your room and place tarps on surfaces you don’t want paint on

Did you know if you’re painting your ceilings you cannot get an ultra flat ceiling paint from the major Home Improvement stores? You have to get flat wall paint, which still has a bit of sheen to it. Ceiling paint only comes in the lighter base, which I hope with the trend of people painting their ceilings, they’ll reconsider.

1: Using A Scraper to remove bumps on your wall or ceiling

These are usually caused by improperly mixed paint or something getting on the wall before the paint dries. I know someone who calls these wall pimples! I like to use my 5-1 tool for this because it has so many uses! I just use the flat side to scrape the wall.

What not do do when patching a wall, fill it with newspaper and use caulk! This will not be a patch that lasts! This is exactly what I found while doing this step, some Sunday funnies in the wall. The “patched hole was caving in and not stable.

From Blah and To Dark and Moody

For the Spring 2022: One Room Challenge I will be refreshing my main bedroom. Bringing it from blah and plan to dark and moody.

It’s that time again for the Apartment Therapy One room Challenge, better known as the ORC! This time around I’m finally getting away from the kitchen I revamped back in the Fall 2021 ORC. I did not do all my blog posts and only did Week 1 , Week 2 and skipped straight to Week 8 from that challenge but I am determined to get it right this time around.

Affiliate Disclosure

Afro and Reno is supported by you, our DIY and Home Renovation community. We participate in affiliate programs to help us earn a small commission on the products we use, love and share with you. Links on this page may come from Amazon Services LLC Influencer Program, Lowes Creator Program, Walmart Creator, or LTK (formerly RewardStyle).

If you decide to buy from one of our links, this goes a long way to help support future Afro and Reno DIYs or some cat food for our broke best friends, Sassy, Kit, Stormy, and Shadow.

If you want to support us directly, consider buying us a Coffee through Ko-Fi

Buy us a Coffee!

Phase 1: The Closet

This time we are going into the Main Bedroom, the theme is Purple and Moody and I want to move a way from the lighter purple in the current room. When I first bought this house the main bedroom was the first room I renovated, it was awful. The previous owners left me with a heavy termite infestation that they had not disclosed but it was VERY apparent in the Main bedroom closet. We are talking about termite frass if you looked at the single closet rod or shelf wrong.

As a result the closet was completely revamped to a custom Container store Avera closet system to stylishly redo the closet. I will outline the experience in another post but I will say I’m glad I got the closet at the time I did because the prices have changed.

The configuration of the closet May change a little bit in the future but it is a stretch goal if I can swing it. Nevertheless, there is a pain point and I wonder if you can see it in the image below?

• 

• 

The small wall in-between!! I would like to remove that wall and make it one big opening! That is one of the first phases of the project. Now, you may go “that wall is there so the closet doors have something to attach to”. You’d be right! The next part of this revamp is to changes the closet door hardware to allow multifold doors. There are a couple configurations to choose from.

The last part of the closet door makeover is to make the doors fit. I wan to be be economical and make the doors out of the bifold doors I already have, cover them up with wood slats and call it a day. I will add a smaller panel (~8in each) to one of the sets to make up the 16in wall space I’ll be getting rid of. If all else fails I can try doing something similar to what you see below.

Check out my Pinterest Idea Board for the Slat doors

Phase 2: The Room Color

The next change that is important to me is the bedroom color. I love purple, purple purple purple. When I was first choosing the colors, I chose wha tI saw as “safe” purple colors. I wasn’t thinking of my self, when choosing, but of what other people might think of the shade of purple. I went with a light lavender and a deep purple. Neither were fully right.

The biggest blow is that when I first chose the colors, the woman at the paint counter thought I was painting a little girls bedroom!! I was embarrassed to say this at the time but now I fully own up tot it and see where she was coming from. The goal now is to make the purple, more grown up. Naturally, my thought is to make it less bright and more of a dark deep purple. I’m so happy that I’ve found so many cool designer accounts on instagram to help me see the different options you can go with color…and even wallpaper!

This time around I asked my instagram community, what color they liked best on the bedroom wall. On the wall most chose Amethyst purple, but on the ceiling everything looked date and people chose Eminent Purple. Both are Sherwin Williams colors from Lowes. Ultimately I went With the post popular initial choice, Amethyst Glass HGSW2411. We are painting the ceiling and the wall this color!!! I can’t wait!

Some may ask…since I’m painting the ceiling…is that too much purple? Maybe. Therefore to offset this a bit I want to make the wall opposite the closet a Wallpapered wall with this beautiful mustard wallpaper from Walls Republic Almond Blossom Floral . This bedroom is going to be epic!

Phase 3: The Accessories

The bedroom has a couple things I’d like to move around. I’l move the bed, but then it leaves me with limited options for nightstands because of the windows. My goal is to build some simple rectangular mitered nightstands to hold my current lights. and some small items. My problem is that things tend to get cluttered, so the theory is the less space I have to clutter the better.